Beginner’s Guide to Applying Semi Permanent Lashes
Setting up your Lash Station
This initial part of the procedure could be the difference in a full set taking 2 hours, to a full set taking 4 hours. It may sound drastic but having the perfect set up is essential for lash artists, and isn't usually something discussed within training as time is limited, and it’s something that is down to personal preference. However, we have included some of our favourite and most time-effective set up tips to ensure your lash appointment runs as smoothly as possible.
Safely Storing your Lash Adhesive
USING A GLUE RING
There are two different methods as to where you should store your glue during the application. The first method is a glue ring, these are small, plastic, disposable rings that have a section in the middle to pour your glue into. This method is great once you get used to having an open ring filled with glue on your finger and although this method takes a little longer to master, once you do, it means the time between dipping the extension into the glue and placing them on the natural lash is much quicker.
This also means that you have longer to apply the extension and longer for the extension to cure on the natural lash.
THE JADE STONE METHOD
The second method is the use of a Jade stone. If you are using this course to refresh your knowledge then we would recommend either method, but if you are just starting off, then using a Jade stone is much easier for a number of reasons.
Firstly, this method means that you are able to use your hands freely without the worry of spilling the glue.
Secondly, due to the material of the jade stone, the glue tends to last a little longer, meaning if you are slower when you start off, you’re not wasting any adhesive. The jade stone is best situated next to the client's head, on the side you write with. We always recommend you trial a few different ways to begin with until you feel you have found the setup that best suits you.
What Temperature and Humidity Should The Treatment Room Be?
A crucial part of lashing is to have the correct temperature and humidity within the room you work in. This is due to a number of reasons and although the comfort of your client is one of them, that is not the main reason.
The main reason this is so important, is to get the best possible results out of your lash glue. In order for your glue to be at its best, the ideal humidity levels should range between 40%-70% and the temperature should be in the region of 20 °C and 24 °C. We recommend purchasing a hygrometer.
These are affordable and read the moisture levels and temperature levels within the room you are working in.
How to Achieve The Perfect Humidity Level
If you are struggling to achieve the correct humidity levels, there are some simple and affordable steps you can follow in order to achieve them. For example, if the humidity is too high, we recommend:
- Closing all windows and doors in your treatment room.
- If it's a cold day, turning the heating on will also improve the humidity levels. This works perfectly as humidity levels decrease as the temperature increases.
- You can also purchase dehumidifiers.
- If you are experiencing lower humidity levels, simply open your windows (making sure the client is happy & comfortable with the temperature first).
- Alternatively, if you place a cup of water somewhere within the room you are working in, this will add moisture and increase the humidity levels.
- If you are happy to purchase a nano mister, this will also help.
Once you have established the correct set-up, humidity and temperature within your room, then you are ready to begin the lashing process.
The Importance of Posture
Your posture when applying lashes plays a big role in your lashing career, after all, if you are lashing full time the last thing you want is back problems, or any kind of strain on your body. Therefore, having the correct posture is vital, and is fairly easy to achieve.
ADJUSTING YOUR CHAIR
Firstly, purchase the correct chair, we always recommend a chair that is height adjustable. You’ll find that some clients require you to lower your chair, and others will require you to higher your chair. As long as your feet are totally flat on the floor and shoulder width apart, you can adjust the height as you please.
PREVENTING BACK PROBLEMS
Next up is your back. Once you feel that you have positioned your chair correctly, it is important that your back is totally straight. Bending your back constantly throughout the day can cause a number of issues, from poor digestion to extreme back pains.
Some chairs come with back rests, while others don’t. Next is stretching, being back to back with clients all day is more than likely going to stiffen you up. Take time throughout your day to stretch in between clients. Stretch if your client goes to the toilet or if you have a quick ten-minute break, and you will be surprised at how the odd stretch can really help.
RELAXING YOUR BODY
Finally, make sure your hands are relaxed and leaning against your bed correctly. Having your hands and arms constantly tense can cause strain within your upper body.
We also recommend massages, although these feel like a treat, they will also help your back massively. They release the stress and strain lashing causes, and help to relax your inner muscles. Not to mention, they also relax and rejuvenate your mind!
How to Apply Individual Lash Extensions: Step By Step
Below we have included a selection of pictures, short tutorials and simple steps on how to apply lash extensions correctly.
Firstly, let’s begin with the simple and easy to follow steps.
STEP ONE - APPLYING EYE PATCHES
Once you and your client have completed the consultation forms, have both agreed on the type of length and curl your client is wanting, and your client is lying comfortably on your bed, it’s time to apply the eye patches.
For these patches to sit comfortably for the duration of the lash application, it’s important to position them 3 mm from the lower lash line.
Once you are happy with the position of the eye patches, it’s important that you check every lash is under the patch and no eyelashes are caught. We recommend using micropore lash tape to ensure each lash is secure, and the patch is unlikely to move.
STEP TWO - PRIMING THE EYELASHES
Priming the natural lashes is incredibly important to ensure that each natural lash is fully cleansed, primed and ready for the lash application. To do this successfully, we recommend using the following equipment:
These micro fibre tools are ideal for separating and coating the natural lashes with the primer. Next up is primer, we recommend using this as it removes any excess oil from the skin and lashes perfectly!
STEP THREE - HANDLING THE LASHES
Once the lashes are fully primed, it’s time to apply the lash extensions. To make your job easier, we recommend placing the lashes you wish to use on a story board hand pallet.
These are perfect for keeping your lashes in one place, and speeding up the process. Once you are happy with your lashes and where they are positioned, it’s time to apply them.
To pick your lash-up correctly, your tweezers should be positioned at a 90-degree angle, and you should pick the tweezers up at the tapered end, leaving the majority of the lash dangling below the tweezers.
STEP FOUR - APPLYING THE LASH ADHESIVE
Once you have your lash held within your tweezers, it’s time to dip the extension into the lash adhesive. To do this correctly, you must ensure your glue is at the perfect consistency, and you then simply swipe the base of the extension into the adhesive.
Finding the perfect glue to extension ratio comes with time and practice, until then, we recommend swiping and assessing the glue before applying the extension to the natural lash.
STEP FIVE - APPLYING THE LASH EXTENSIONS
When applying the extension to the natural lash, it’s important that you isolate both lashes either side of the lash you are applying the extension to. Nothing can touch the natural lash whilst the extension is bonding onto it. Once you have done this, you swipe the extension from the base to the tip of the natural lash, and then place the extension to the base of the natural lash, leaving a small 1 mm gap.
This gap is essential as no extension should EVER touch the client's skin (eyelid). Placing the extension to the top or underneath the lash is down to personal preference, as long as the base of the extension is bonded to the base of the natural lash, the rest is a matter of trial and error.
STEP SIX - ALLOWING THE GLUE TO BOND
Allowing the lash glue to bond is extremely important, and giving the lash a few seconds to dry before you move on to your next lash is vital. Although in some cases, extensions do stick together, if this happens then simply use your tweezers to separate them. We recommend doing this whilst the glue is still tacky.
STEP SEVEN - ALLOWING THE LASHES TO DRY
Once you have applied your full set of lash extensions, it’s important that you then provide time for the lashes to dry. There are a selection of blowers and tools that can help when curing the glue and drying the lashes. These are also great when it comes to dealing with the fumes from the adhesive.
We recommend using these throughout the application, as well as at the end of the process to set your client’s lashes and ensure they are fully dry before they leave the appointment.